One of the more complex wood-restoration projects we’ve taken on has been a sorely neglected Victorian-era loveseat and rocking chair combo. We even had to partly rebuild the winged cougars on the arms (we figure a bored dog had been chewing on them for some years). When it finally came time to stain them, we were faced with a dilemma: polycrylic or polyurethane? Given the uniqueness of the furniture, we didn’t want to mess it up the finish. So we took a deep dive into the subject.
“The most common misconception about these products is that they are interchangeable,” says Brandon Walker, Superintendent at ASAP Restoration. “Choosing between polyacrylic and polyurethane for a project depends on various factors, such as the type of surface, the desired finish characteristics and color, the ultimate application method, environmental considerations and even personal preferences.”
We ultimately went with polycrylic for the loveseat and rocking chair, but here’s how to determine which is best for your project.
Polycrylic is a water-based finish used to protect wood, metal and concrete surfaces. It comes in liquid and aerosol forms and is generally viewed as less toxic than oil-based polyurethane for both people and the environment.
“Polycrylic finishes provide a durable and protective layer that helps to enhance the appearance of the underlying material by adding depth, richness and a glossy or satin sheen,” says Walker. “They are often used as an alternative to traditional oil-based varnishes or lacquers because they dry faster, have lower odor and are easier to clean up with water.”
Two to three coats, depending on the amount of wear and tear the surface will receive. “More coats means more protection against the effects of the elements,” says Walker.
Between $10 and $30 per quart, depending on the brand and quantity purchased. For a baseline, Minwax’s polycyclic stain is $24.48 per quart at Lowe’s. “Larger quantities can bring down the price, but special formulations can increase it,” says Walker. “There is also a wide range of prices in store vs. online and on sale vs. off the shelf.”
Polyurethane is a protective finish for wood made from synthetic resins. It comes as either an oil-based or water-based stain. “It offers excellent durability and protection for whatever it is being applied to, and it will last for years to decades in the right conditions,” says Walker.
Oil-based polyurethane finishes usually take longer to dry and leave a slight amber or yellow tint on the surface, whereas water-based polyurethane has fewer VOCs and usually dries faster.
Two to three coats. Oil-based polyurethane generally requires fewer coats than water-based for total protection and its protection lasts longer.
Again, it depends on the brand and quantity you’re purchasing, but for a ballpark, Minwax’s polyurethane stain runs $16.48 a quart at Lowes. “Water-based polyurethane is typically more expensive than oil-based,” says Walker. “It will also likely require more coats, which will not last as long and require additional applications. So water-based is not only more expensive in the short term, but the long term as well.”
Polyurethane is best for projects that need long-lasting durability, while polycrylic is easier to work with and safer, especially if your workspace is poorly ventilated, says Jay Sanders, owner of Castle Dream Construction. “Polyurethane is very toxic. It has twice the VOC content of polycrylic,” he says.
Walker says that for most projects polycrylic is a good choice. “Lots of the time, choosing between these two options will also come down to which one you prefer working with, as the results are very similar, and most people will have trouble telling the difference between them once everything is dry,” he says.
Whichever you choose, sand between coats to create a smoother surface on the finished project, says Walker.
Neither are rated as food safe, according to Sharad Gaurav, Senior Product Manager for Minwax Clear products. However, both are commonly considered non-toxic once they’ve fully cured.
Neither is rated as waterproof, but they are both moisture-resistant. “Both are waterproof in the short-term, but over longer timelines, polycrylic and water-based polyurethane will degrade faster than an oil-based polyurethane formulation,” says Walker.
Since the cost of both is similar, which to choose shouldn’t come down to price, but rather which is a better fit for the project at hand.
It depends on its exposure to moisture, chemicals, abrasions and other wear and tear factors, but, generally, oil-based polyurethane lasts the longest.
Walker has had success painting over both, so long as they are prepped with a thorough cleaning and a slight sanding. However, Gaurav recommends against it, since both are considered topcoats. “The top coat can be applied over paint, but the user needs to test before application as polyurethane is an oil-based product that will amber over time,” Gaurav says.
Neither Walker nor Gaurav recommends doing so. “There may be issues with adhesion, chemical mixing, chemical degradation and long-term durability of both products,” says Gaurav.
Yes, but Gaurav recommends against it. “Pros may be able to thin the product [in order to spray it, but] DIYers should be more careful.” Instead, opt for the aerosol versions of either product.
Whichever you use, make sure your work area is well-ventilated to avoid inhaling VOC toxins and wear protective clothing. It’s also recommended to wear a respirator, especially with polyurethane. Do not use near ignition sources, and store in cool, dry areas away from children.
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